Matte, dry-handed and quietly hard-wearing — the silk that survives a working day.
Momme
12–30 mm
Weight
≈ 52–129 gsm
Width
114 / 140 cm
Availability
Ready stock
Crepe de chine is a plain-weave mulberry silk woven from tightly twisted yarns, alternately S and Z. That twist is the whole point: it gives the cloth a pebbled, matte surface, a dry hand, and enough natural elasticity to shed creases that would ruin a charmeuse.
It is the most practical silk we sell. A 16 mm crepe de chine blouse looks pressed at the end of a long day, travels without a steamer, and takes a print more evenly than any satin. At 22 mm it becomes a tailoring cloth — soft enough to drape, dense enough to hold a lapel.
At a glance
Matte, pebbled surface — reads as fabric rather than shine
Natural crease recovery from the alternating twist; the travel silk
16 mm is the shirting and blouse standard; 22 mm is the tailoring weight
Dyes to a slightly softer tone than satin because the surface scatters light
Interlacing diagram — warp ends vertical, weft picks horizontal. A dark cell is a point where the warp passes over the weft.
Crepe de chine is a plain weave built from high-twist yarns that alternate S and Z twist, usually two of one and two of the other across the repeat. The opposing twists fight each other during finishing, the yarns relax into a fine pebbled surface, and the cloth gains a small amount of natural stretch in both directions.
That construction is why crepe de chine travels well: the pebbled surface hides creasing, the twist gives it recovery, and the matte finish does not mark the way a satin face does. It is the safest silk in the catalogue for a garment that has to survive a full day.
Understanding the structure is the cheapest way to predict behaviour: the length of the float decides the lustre and the snag resistance, and the twist in the yarn decides how much the cloth creases. If you are choosing between two families, the weight chart and the fabric selector filter on both.
Weights we weave — and what each one is for
Momme fixes the price, the opacity and the drape. The table below is the range we actually quote for Silk Crepe de Chine. The exact weight and width are confirmed in writing on every quotation.
Momme
Approx. gsm
What it is for
Qualities
12 mm
≈ 52 gsm
Light blouse and lining weight — cool, dry, slightly translucent
12 mm Crepe de Chine, 16 mm Stretch Crepe de Chine
14 mm
≈ 60 gsm
Light blouse and lining weight — cool, dry, slightly translucent
12 mm Crepe de Chine, 16 mm Crepe de Chine
16 mm
≈ 69 gsm
The blouse and shirt standard: opaque, drapey, crease-resistant
12 mm Crepe de Chine, 16 mm Crepe de Chine, 16 mm Stretch Crepe de Chine, Crepe Marocain
19 mm
≈ 82 gsm
The blouse and shirt standard: opaque, drapey, crease-resistant
16 mm Stretch Crepe de Chine, 22 mm Heavy Crepe de Chine, Crepe Marocain, Sponge Crepe
22 mm
≈ 95 gsm
Tailoring and heavy-drape weight for suits, wide trousers and column dresses
22 mm Heavy Crepe de Chine, Sponge Crepe, Zibelline
25 mm
≈ 108 gsm
Tailoring and heavy-drape weight for suits, wide trousers and column dresses
22 mm Heavy Crepe de Chine
30 mm
≈ 129 gsm
Tailoring and heavy-drape weight for suits, wide trousers and column dresses
22 mm Heavy Crepe de Chine
Not sure which weight you need? The momme chart converts every weight to gsm and matches each band to the garments it serves, and the selector filters the whole library by weight and application.
What Silk Crepe de Chine Fabric is used for
Typical applications in this family are shirts and blouses, soft tailoring, wide-leg trousers, day dresses, printed scarves, travel-friendly garments, childrenswear. Each link opens the buying guide for that application, with the weight windows we recommend and the fabrics our clients actually order.
Same twisted-yarn family, but georgette is woven much more openly and stays sheer. If you want opacity, stay with crepe de chine. Read the Silk Georgette guide.
Cutting and sewing this weight
Silk is not difficult to sew, but it punishes the wrong needle. The parameters below are the ones our clients converge on for this weight band; test on an offcut first, because a needle size that is fine for one finish will pick threads in another.
Parameter
What we recommend for 12–30 mm (≈ 52–129 gsm)
Machine needle
70/10 to 80/12, fresh needle every few garments
Stitch length
10–12 stitches per inch (2.5 mm)
Thread
Fine mercerised cotton, silk-finished polyester, or spun silk — matched to the shell so the seam does not pucker
Interlining / support
25–40 gsm, or a hair-canvas chest piece for a structured bodice
Pressing
silk setting with steam, always through a cloth; do not glaze a satin face
Pre-shrinking
cold soak, or have the piece steam-shrunk before laying the pattern
Seam finish
French or hairline seam on anything sheer; overlocked and turned on opaque weights
Cut single layer. Silk shifts, and a folded lay gives you two panels that are not mirror images.
Pin inside the seam allowance only, with fine glass-head or silk pins — a pin hole through charmeuse or a satin face is permanent.
Use a fine, well-twisted thread. A thick thread in a fine needle leaves a visible channel and puckers the seam.
Mark the straight grain on every panel before you lift it off the table. On a bias-cut garment the grain line is the whole design.
French seams or hairline seams on anything sheer: a plain turned seam shows as a dark line through the cloth.
How much silk crepe de chine to order
Planning quantities, from standard block patterns. Figures are for a plain layout with no pattern repeat to match.
Garment or item
At 114 cm width
At 140 cm width
Notes
Scarf 90 × 90 cm
1.0 m
1.0 m
Includes a narrow hand-rolled hem; allow more for a wide hem or a border print
Camisole or shell top
1.2 m
1.0 m
Bias cut; add 15% if the design is cut on the true bias
Blouse or shirt
2.0 m
1.6 m
Straight body, set-in sleeve; more for a gathered or oversized body
A-line skirt
1.5 m
1.2 m
Above-knee; a full circle skirt needs roughly double
Straight dress
2.8 m
2.2 m
Knee length, no train, bodice and skirt from one length
Bias slip dress
3.2 m
2.6 m
Bias layouts waste more; buy the length the pattern states, not the flat measure
Evening gown with train
5.5 m
4.5 m
Floor length; fitted bodice plus a trained skirt needs a second length to match
Standard pillowcase 50 × 70 cm
0.7 m
0.7 m
Envelope closure; pair two if the fabric has a directional nap
Curtain panel, 2× fullness
—
3.0 m per metre of drop
Rule of thumb: drop × 2 to 2.5 for pencil pleat, plus hem and heading allowance
These are planning figures from standard block patterns, not a cutting guarantee. They assume no pattern matching and no nap. Add 10–15% for a large repeat or a one-direction print, and add your shrinkage allowance before you order. If a program is costing on metres, send us the marker and we will quote against the actual consumption.
What to check before you cut
Every roll is inspected before dispatch, but cloth is a natural product and dye lots vary. These are the eight checks worth making at goods-in — they take two minutes and they are the difference between a claim and a write-off.
Check
How to do it
What is a problem
Shading, side-to-side and end-to-end
Lay the cloth folded end to end and across the width under daylight or a D65 lamp.
Any visible step between the centre and the selvedge, or between the start and the end of a roll.
Bowing and skewing
Square the cloth on a table and measure the diagonal, or check a printed repeat against the selvedge.
The weft running more than a few centimetres off square across the width — it distorts every panel cut from it.
Slubs, thick and thin places
Expected and structural in dupioni and shantung; check for consistency across panels.
A slub count that varies sharply between panels of the same garment.
Broken ends, floats, snagged yarns
Hold the cloth up to a light source and scan across the width.
Any broken filament on a satin face — it will run under tension.
Crease marks and chafe marks
Unroll flat and look across the surface at a low angle.
Permanent creases pressed into a finish, or abraded lines where the roll has rubbed in transit.
Soiling, oil and water marks
Scan both sides; some marks only show on the reverse.
Any spot. Silk stains cannot be safely spot-cleaned before dyeing.
Width short against the ticket
Measure the usable width between the selvedges, excluding the pin-holes.
Less usable width than the quotation states — markers are often drawn tight.
Hand and finish against the approved sample
Compare to the bulk sample you signed off, in the same lighting.
A softer or firmer hand, or a difference in lustre. Finishing drifts between dye lots.
Every roll we ship is inspected before it leaves, and any piece with a defect is cut short and the metrage credited rather than passed on. Even so, check the cloth before it goes under the knife: once a piece is cut it is accepted. Report anything within seven days of delivery with the roll number.
Ordering: minimums, colours and finishing
Stock colours are available from 1 metre, which makes sampling practical. Custom dyeing starts at 40 metres per colour with a lab dip approved before bulk; digital printing starts at 40 metres per design after a strike-off. Widths are 114 / 140 cm, and the momme tolerance is stated on the quotation rather than assumed.
For a production program, approve a one-metre cut in the bulk colour before the roll is dyed — screen colour and cloth colour are not the same thing, and silk crepe de chine fabric is a family where a shade difference shows across a seam.
Care and handling
Hand wash cold with a pH-neutral silk detergent, or dry clean. Do not soak or wring; roll in a towel and dry flat away from direct sun. Press on the reverse with a cool iron through a cloth. Expect 3–5% shrinkage on the first wash, so pre-shrink before cutting a production run.
Frequently asked questions
What is crepe de chine?
Crepe de chine (often written CDC) is a plain-weave 100% mulberry silk made with alternating S-twist and Z-twist yarns. The twist creates a fine pebbled texture, a matte finish and a small amount of natural stretch, which is why it creases far less than satin.
What momme crepe de chine should I buy for shirts?
16 mm for shirts and blouses, 12 mm if you want a lighter summer hand, 22 mm for trousers and soft tailoring. Below 12 mm the cloth becomes too sheer and too fragile at the seam for everyday wear.
Is crepe de chine good for printing?
Yes — the matte surface takes digital print with almost no glare, so colours read true in photographs. Print minimums start at 40 metres per design and we can print onto 12, 16 or 22 mm cloth.
How do you wash crepe de chine?
Hand wash cold with a pH-neutral silk detergent, rinse without wringing, roll in a towel and dry flat away from sun. It is more tolerant than charmeuse but still dislikes hot water and tumble drying.
How do I know this is real mulberry silk and not polyester satin?
Ask for a burn test on a cutting: mulberry silk burns slowly, smells like burning hair, and leaves a brittle black bead that crushes to powder. Polyester melts, smells sweet-acrid and leaves a hard bead. We supply 100% mulberry silk and state the composition on every quotation; if you need formal confirmation we can arrange third-party fibre analysis on the bulk.
What width do the rolls come in, and can I get a wider one?
Standard widths are 114 cm and 140 cm, and the usable width excludes the selvedge. Wider widths are woven to order on a minimum quantity. If a marker needs a specific width, tell us before quoting — the price is calculated on the width as well as the weight.
How much shrinkage should I allow?
Silk typically relaxes 3–8% on the first wet treatment, more on washed finishes and less on a fabric that has already been sand-washed. The safe approach is to pre-shrink a full length before cutting a production run, or to have the piece steam-shrunk. Do not guess: the allowance belongs in the marker, not in the pattern.
Can you match a colour I send you?
Yes. Send a physical swatch or a Pantone reference and we dye a lab dip for approval before bulk. Custom colours start at 40 metres per colour. Screen and monitor colours are not a reliable reference — a photograph of a fabric is two colour conversions away from the cloth.
What is the lead time?
Stock colours dispatch in a few working days. Dyed-to-order runs need the lab dip approved first, then dyeing and finishing; printed runs need a strike-off approved before bulk. The quotation carries the confirmed date for your quantity, and we would rather quote a longer date and meet it.
Do you ship samples, and can I order just one metre?
Yes. Stock colours are available from one metre so you can test drape, dye uptake and washing before committing. We post swatch cards worldwide; tell us which families you are comparing and we will send the relevant colours.
PHOTOGRAPHED FROM OUR STOCK
Silk Crepe de Chine — the cloth, as it is
Unretouched photographs of rolls and cut lengths from our own floor. Colour varies between dye lots; the swatch card is the only reliable reference.
