40 momme silk fabric

40 momme (~174 gsm) is the top of what we weave regularly, and it behaves more like a light wool than like silk. Six families get there — heavy noil, mikado, charmeuse, twill, sandwashed crepe and jacquard.

It is not a curiosity weight, but it is a specific one. If you are specifying 40 mm you almost certainly already know why, which is usually either a coat that has to behave like outerwear or an interior that has to hang dead straight.

Families woven at 40 momme

Availability is always current-stock dependent — the shelf holds 300–500 m per colour in most families; custom dye starts from 40 m.

What 40 momme suits

Where 40 momme sits in the range

Every weight we weave, with the number of families and individual qualities available at each. GSM is the standard conversion.

The highlighted row is this page. Family counts differ because looms and yarns set the limits — not every structure can be woven at every weight.

Sewing and handling at this weight

• **100/16**, heavy-duty thread. Domestic machines strain on folded seams.
• Everything is at the limit: bulk, needle penetration, press marks, seam stacking. Prototype before you cut the good cloth.
• Do not assume standard seam allowances. Heavy silk needs them graded aggressively at every junction.
• Ask about width and availability before designing around it — this is not a weight that is always lying on the shelf in every colour.

Next to the neighbouring weights

• One lighter step: 35 momme — 2 families, 5 qualities.
• One heavier step: 70 momme — 1 families, 1 qualities.

Frequently asked questions

What does 40 momme mean in grams?

One momme is roughly 4.34 g/m², so 40 momme works out to about ~174 per square metre. The conversion is the standard one published across the trade; actual GSM varies slightly by weave and finish.

Which fabrics come in 40 momme?

6 families on our card are woven at this weight, 8 qualities in total — use the table above for the exact list. Availability of specific colours depends on what is on the shelf versus in a dye lot.

Is 40 momme silk good quality?

Momme is weight, not quality. A 40 mm is not better than a lighter one — it is a different tool. Quality is decided by the grade of the yarn and the evenness of the weave, both of which we hold constant across the range.

Can I order 40 momme from one metre?

Yes, in stock colours — cut from one metre, same as the rest of the range. Custom dyeing of this weight starts from 40 metres per colour with a lab dip approved first.