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SILK WEIGHT · 11 FAMILIES · 19 QUALITIES

12 momme silk fabric

About ~52 g/m² by the standard conversion. Here is what we actually weave at this weight, and what it is for.

12 momme (~52 gsm) is the classic lining weight and the weight our range covers most broadly — eleven families, including the habotai that most people mean when they say silk lining.

It is still light enough to disappear inside another garment, but substantial enough that a blouse made from it hangs rather than floats. This is the crossover point, and it is the single most useful weight to have in the room when you are deciding.

Families woven at 12 momme

FamilyQualitiesGSMIn the range
Silk Habotai4~525mm Silk Habotai; 12mm Silk Habotai; Silk Pongee + 1 more
Silk Twill & Foulard3~5214mm Silk Twill; 14mm Silk Foulard; Silk Grosgrain Ribbon
Silk Charmeuse & Satin2~5212mm Silk Charmeuse; Plain Silk Satin
Silk Crepe de Chine2~5212mm Silk Crepe de Chine; 16mm Stretch Crepe de Chine
Silk Georgette2~528mm Silk Georgette; Double Georgette
Silk Chiffon1~5212mm Double-layer Chiffon
Silk Organza1~528mm Silk Organza
Batiste & Voile1~526mm Silk Batiste
Silk Taffeta1~5212mm Silk Taffeta
Digital Printed Silk1~5212mm Printed Silk Habotai
Brocade & Jacquard1~52Silk Lamé & Lurex

Availability is always current-stock dependent — the shelf holds 300–500 m per colour in most families; custom dye starts from 40 m.

What 12 momme suits

Lining coats, jackets and skirts

Habotai at 12 mm is the default for a reason: slippery enough to let a coat slide over a jumper, cheap enough to use generously.

Blouses and shirts

Opaque enough to wear alone in most constructions, particularly in a charmeuse or CDC.

Scarves with drape

Heavy enough to fall properly rather than hover. Most printed silk scarves sit at or near this weight.

Underlayers for bias-cut work

A 12 mm slip under something cut on the bias stops it clinging without adding visible bulk.

Where 12 momme sits in the range

Every weight we weave, with the number of families and individual qualities available at each. GSM is the standard conversion.

WeightFamiliesQualitiesApprox GSM
3 momme11~13
4 momme23~17
5 momme34~22
6 momme69~26
8 momme915~35
10 momme58~43
12 momme1119~52
14 momme69~61
16 momme1033~69
18 momme33~78
19 momme926~82
20 momme56~87
22 momme1230~95
25 momme1317~108
30 momme1015~130
35 momme25~152
40 momme68~174
70 momme11~304

The highlighted row is this page. Family counts differ because looms and yarns set the limits — not every structure can be woven at every weight.

Sewing and handling at this weight

  • **70/10 or 80/12**. Fine thread, and a fresh needle — silk will show every burr.
  • Still pre-wash or pre-shrink anything that will be washed later. Whether we pre-shrink depends on the finish; ask for that detail on your enquiry rather than assuming.
  • Pin in the seam allowance. Needle holes do not come out of silk, and 12 mm is light enough that pin marks read through.
  • French or flat-felled seams give a clean inside on a garment whose inside is often visible against the light.

Next to the neighbouring weights

  • One lighter step: 10 momme — 5 families, 8 qualities.
  • One heavier step: 14 momme — 6 families, 9 qualities.

Frequently asked questions

What does 12 momme mean in grams?

One momme is roughly 4.34 g/m², so 12 momme works out to about ~52 per square metre. The conversion is the standard one published across the trade; actual GSM varies slightly by weave and finish.

Which fabrics come in 12 momme?

11 families on our card are woven at this weight, 19 qualities in total — use the table above for the exact list. Availability of specific colours depends on what is on the shelf versus in a dye lot.

Is 12 momme silk good quality?

Momme is weight, not quality. A 12 mm is not better than a lighter one — it is a different tool. Quality is decided by the grade of the yarn and the evenness of the weave, both of which we hold constant across the range.

Can I order 12 momme from one metre?

Yes, in stock colours — cut from one metre, same as the rest of the range. Custom dyeing of this weight starts from 40 metres per colour with a lab dip approved first.

AT THIS WEIGHT

Cloth we hold at 12 momme

Photographed from our own stock. Click through for the full family range.

Order 12 momme silk

Tell us the family, colour and length and we will quote it with a confirmed dispatch date.