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Silk Fabric Lab Dips

The cheapest insurance in dyeing — and the step most often skipped.

A lab dip is a small piece of the actual fabric dyed to your colour, sent for approval before the bulk lot is dyed. It exists because colour on a screen, on paper and on cloth are three different things, and because the only way to know what a dye recipe does to a specific silk is to run it.

Every custom colour we dye starts with one. It adds days to the order and it is the reason a 40-metre lot does not come back the wrong shade. The dip is dyed in the same house that will dye the bulk — that detail matters more than any other in this process.

Why it matters

Screen colour is not cloth colour

A Pantone chip is printed; a monitor emits light; silk reflects it. Two conversions sit between the colour you picked and the colour you get, and the dip removes both.

Different silks take dye differently

The same recipe on charmeuse and on crepe de chine will not read the same, because the surface reflects differently. Dip the fabric you are actually buying.

Metamerism is invisible until it is not

A colour can match under the showroom light and split under daylight. Look at the dip in the light the garment will be worn in.

The approval sequence

StepWhat happensWho signs off
1. ReferenceYou send a physical swatch or a Pantone referenceYou
2. DipWe dye a small piece of the actual fabricWe dye, you receive
3. ApprovalYou check it in your own lighting and confirm or ask for a re-dipYou
4. BulkThe approved recipe is scaled to the production lotWe dye
5. Retained sampleA cutting from the bulk is held for repeat ordersWe hold

In practice

Approve the dip in the light the garment will be seen in, and against the trims it will sit next to. A colour approved under a warm showroom lamp can split badly under daylight — the effect is called metamerism and it is invisible until the garment is on a body in a window. If a dip has to match a zip, a lining or an existing garment, put them side by side under both light sources.

One dip is rarely the last one. Budget for a second round in the schedule rather than treating it as a failure, and be specific when you reject: "too yellow" or "too flat" moves a recipe; "not right" does not.

Also covered on this page

These search phrases all land here because they mean the same thing:

If you were looking for a different commercial question, the wholesale page covers programmes and the ready-stock page covers what is on the shelf right now.

Frequently asked questions

What is a lab dip?

A small sample of the actual fabric dyed to your colour for approval before the bulk lot is dyed. It is how you confirm the colour on the cloth you are buying rather than on a screen or a paper chip, and it is standard practice for any dyed-to-order run.

How long does a lab dip take?

It is a matter of days to dye and a few more to reach you by post. It adds time to the order, which is why the quotation for a custom colour carries the approval step as a line item rather than hiding it in the lead time.

Do I pay for lab dips?

The dip is part of a dyed-to-order run rather than a separate charge on a first order. Where a programme needs several rounds or a large number of colours, we confirm the arrangement before starting.

What if the dip does not match?

Say so and we re-dip. That is the entire purpose of the step — a re-dip costs days, whereas a wrong bulk lot costs the lot. Check it in the lighting the garment will actually be seen in, and check it against the trims it has to sit next to.

Can I approve from a photograph of the dip?

No. A photograph of a dyed swatch reintroduces exactly the two colour conversions the dip was meant to remove. We post the physical dip; approve the cloth, not an image of it.

Other buying questions

Silk fabric families

PHOTOGRAPHED FROM OUR STOCK

The cloth behind these terms

Unretouched photographs from our own floor. Colour varies between dye lots; the swatch card is the only reliable reference.

Ask about silk fabric lab dips

Tell us the quantity and the colour and we will quote it with a confirmed dispatch date.